Chinese railroad worker: But what will you do?
Kwai Chang Caine: Work. Wander. Rest when I can
-from the television series, 'Kung Fu'
Jules: That's what I've been sitting here contemplating. First, I'm gonna deliver this case to Marcellus. Then, basically, I'm gonna walk the earth.
Vincent: What do you mean, walk the earth?
Jules: You know, like Caine in "Kung Fu." Just walk from town to town, meet people, get in adventures.
Vincent: How long do you intend to walk the earth?
Jules: Until God puts me where he wants me to be.
Vincent: What if he never does?
Jules: If it takes forever, I'll wait forever.
Vincent: So you decided to be a bum?
Jules: I'll just be Jules, VIncent. No more, no less.
-from the movie, 'Pulp Fiction'
Friday, September 26, 2008
Food and Festivals
I like rice. Rice is great if you're hungry and want 2000 of something. -Mitch Hedberg
I have been in Korla for one month. My first English lesson will take place next week, so for the last 30 days I have wandered through town, for all intents and purposes, as a deaf-mute.
This has its advantages. Be honest now: In this last month of the Presidential campaign, haven't you secretly wished you didn't understand English? Lucky George!
Still, the inability to verbally communicate does pose some logistical hurdles. Food comes to mind, for example, and the times when the food in my mind has failed to materialize as food in my stomach.
The compound I live in has a number of restaurants, and several of them are buffets. This is eating at its easiest, strolling down the line and selecting whatever looks appealing. There is always rice and always soup. A variety of vegetable dishes, some with meat and some without. Usually noodles, often bread, and always fruit. It's a piece of cake (without the cake).
Ah, but sometimes the meat misleads me. More than once I have bit into flesh, thinking it was something else, and found myself chewing liver. Those inscrutable chinese meats!
There is also a Uighur restaurant in the compound, and numerous more outside the gates. At first I kept pictures of the dishes I liked on my digital camera, to present the restaurant worker with a visual display of my desires. Now, I have a few Uighur words with which to order.
There are also many small eateries and sidewalk stands where I can employ the point-and-chew method.
I wrote earlier that this location is farther from an ocean than anywhere else. Maybe it's also the furthest city from a Taco Bell. There is however, a KFC, which has lured me in twice so far. There is no sign of McDonalds, nor of its icon, 'Uncle Ronald,' as he is known to the Chinese.
At times I even cook for myself, though admittedly it's been limited to stirfry and instant noodles.
The first time I went to a friend's home for dinner, I was served a big bowl of chicken's feet and chiles. Last week, dining with a couple of friends, they graciously put the fish head in my bowl...
Although I have been here only a short time, several holidays have already served me well. The first was Teacher's Day, when all the school staff had a half day off and were given 500 yuan in cash. In Western terms (certainly when compared with 700 billion dollars) 500 yuan is not much. But when an all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet costs two yuan, 500 of those guys go a long way. Teacher's Day was also recognized by numerous businesses in town, in the form of free gifts and discounts. And many students arrived bearing flowers and small gifts.
A few days later came the Mid-Autumn Festival. We were given a three-day weekend for this event, and a 300 yuan credit in the compound's stores. The park across the river from my apartment was brightly lit every night, along with the bridge, and hosted outdoor movies, vendors and cultural exhibits. The school also sponsored a one-day trip to the edge of the Taklamaken Desert.
And, coming up this week, is National Day (the anniversary of the People's Republic of China). Three days vacation for this event, and they are convening school on Saturday and Sunday so we will have seven consecutive days off. And, a cash bonus of 800 yuan. I'm planning to take those days and catch a sleeper train to Kashgar. It should be an experience.
May the bears and bulls of your market be kind, and may the bears and bulls of my market be non-existent (it's tricky enough to deal with the chickens and fish).
I have been in Korla for one month. My first English lesson will take place next week, so for the last 30 days I have wandered through town, for all intents and purposes, as a deaf-mute.
This has its advantages. Be honest now: In this last month of the Presidential campaign, haven't you secretly wished you didn't understand English? Lucky George!
Still, the inability to verbally communicate does pose some logistical hurdles. Food comes to mind, for example, and the times when the food in my mind has failed to materialize as food in my stomach.
The compound I live in has a number of restaurants, and several of them are buffets. This is eating at its easiest, strolling down the line and selecting whatever looks appealing. There is always rice and always soup. A variety of vegetable dishes, some with meat and some without. Usually noodles, often bread, and always fruit. It's a piece of cake (without the cake).
Ah, but sometimes the meat misleads me. More than once I have bit into flesh, thinking it was something else, and found myself chewing liver. Those inscrutable chinese meats!
There is also a Uighur restaurant in the compound, and numerous more outside the gates. At first I kept pictures of the dishes I liked on my digital camera, to present the restaurant worker with a visual display of my desires. Now, I have a few Uighur words with which to order.
There are also many small eateries and sidewalk stands where I can employ the point-and-chew method.
I wrote earlier that this location is farther from an ocean than anywhere else. Maybe it's also the furthest city from a Taco Bell. There is however, a KFC, which has lured me in twice so far. There is no sign of McDonalds, nor of its icon, 'Uncle Ronald,' as he is known to the Chinese.
At times I even cook for myself, though admittedly it's been limited to stirfry and instant noodles.
The first time I went to a friend's home for dinner, I was served a big bowl of chicken's feet and chiles. Last week, dining with a couple of friends, they graciously put the fish head in my bowl...
Although I have been here only a short time, several holidays have already served me well. The first was Teacher's Day, when all the school staff had a half day off and were given 500 yuan in cash. In Western terms (certainly when compared with 700 billion dollars) 500 yuan is not much. But when an all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet costs two yuan, 500 of those guys go a long way. Teacher's Day was also recognized by numerous businesses in town, in the form of free gifts and discounts. And many students arrived bearing flowers and small gifts.
A few days later came the Mid-Autumn Festival. We were given a three-day weekend for this event, and a 300 yuan credit in the compound's stores. The park across the river from my apartment was brightly lit every night, along with the bridge, and hosted outdoor movies, vendors and cultural exhibits. The school also sponsored a one-day trip to the edge of the Taklamaken Desert.
And, coming up this week, is National Day (the anniversary of the People's Republic of China). Three days vacation for this event, and they are convening school on Saturday and Sunday so we will have seven consecutive days off. And, a cash bonus of 800 yuan. I'm planning to take those days and catch a sleeper train to Kashgar. It should be an experience.
May the bears and bulls of your market be kind, and may the bears and bulls of my market be non-existent (it's tricky enough to deal with the chickens and fish).
Monday, September 8, 2008
A Walk Without Talk
Remember that river running between my compound and downtown? (psstt! If you don't, just scroll down).
Well, I went for a wander yesterday, and no bridge was required. I found out later that this is an annual phenomena; the water is stopped further upstream so that the muck and guck can be cleared away.
At any rate, as I was gingerly making my way across the channel, I noticed a number of people searching through (and pulling things out of) the sludge.
I was hesitant to look closer, in the event that their plunder resembled some mystery munchie from the compound restaurant. But it turned out to be some type of clam (or at least a clammish kind of shelled thing). Of course, they might have been pulling other things out as well..... Nope! I don't want to know.
I continued on my walk, through and beyond downtown. No specific destination; just window-shopping and people watching. When I reached my furthest point away from home (a couple of hours on foot), I realized that I had yet to use a public toilet in China. I also realized that I didn't know how to ask for one. Some things you just don't mime.
Oh, for the days of the John Muir Trail when the world was my toilet (in a good way).
The situation was becoming more than a tad uncomfortable, when I spied a sign with a graphic of a man and woman. Yes, relief!
Two lessons learned: One, until I learn to speak Mandarin, always carry my phrasebook. Two, always carry toilet paper. Like many Thai facilities, this was a squat toilet without paper. Unlike Thailand, there was no water spigot.
NOTE: If this blog entry is short, it's because my notes were used elsewhere. Nope, you don't want to know.
Well, I went for a wander yesterday, and no bridge was required. I found out later that this is an annual phenomena; the water is stopped further upstream so that the muck and guck can be cleared away.
At any rate, as I was gingerly making my way across the channel, I noticed a number of people searching through (and pulling things out of) the sludge.
I was hesitant to look closer, in the event that their plunder resembled some mystery munchie from the compound restaurant. But it turned out to be some type of clam (or at least a clammish kind of shelled thing). Of course, they might have been pulling other things out as well..... Nope! I don't want to know.
I continued on my walk, through and beyond downtown. No specific destination; just window-shopping and people watching. When I reached my furthest point away from home (a couple of hours on foot), I realized that I had yet to use a public toilet in China. I also realized that I didn't know how to ask for one. Some things you just don't mime.
Oh, for the days of the John Muir Trail when the world was my toilet (in a good way).
The situation was becoming more than a tad uncomfortable, when I spied a sign with a graphic of a man and woman. Yes, relief!
Two lessons learned: One, until I learn to speak Mandarin, always carry my phrasebook. Two, always carry toilet paper. Like many Thai facilities, this was a squat toilet without paper. Unlike Thailand, there was no water spigot.
NOTE: If this blog entry is short, it's because my notes were used elsewhere. Nope, you don't want to know.
Friday, September 5, 2008
Body odour (known also as the scent of the immortals) is a disgusting condition with an awful nauseating smell. It often affects social relationships and can delay life's major event: marriage. It disadvantages young men and women at job interviews or when they try to enlist, therefore inflicting much suffering and anguish. By using a new total treatment, we can instantly eradicate the odour with a rate of up to 97.53% success. For joy in life and future happiness, we welcome you to come and rid yourself of it....
-An advertisement, from the novel 'Soul Mountain,' by Gao Xingjian
-An advertisement, from the novel 'Soul Mountain,' by Gao Xingjian
Region, City, Town
Downtown (from my compound)
The bridge to downtown
A park in my compound
This introduction to the area will be brief, for two reasons. One, my knowledge of this area does not extend pass brevity. And two, if you're actually interested in more detail, you can always google it (which is what I'm doing).
But first (because 20 minutes is 19 minutes too long to spend on photo captions) in case this final attempt is equally unsuccessful: The pictures above (hopefully above) are: 1. A view of downtown from my compound, 2. the bridge to downtown, and 3. a park close to my apartment.
So, briefly then:
The Xinjiang Autonomous Region is in the northwest of the People's Republic of China. It's huge. In land mass, it accounts for one-sixth of China. It borders Tibet, Mongolia, Russia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgzstan, Afghanistan, Pakistan and India. Maybe more (countries are changing quicker than maps these days).
Xinjiang has the dubious distinction of boasting the farthest spot in the world from an ocean. It also has the second largest desert in the world, the Taklamakan, the fringes of which are not too far from my city. I forsee a sand-blown camel ride in my future.
The region is home to a large number of minorities (non-Han Chinese), which include Uygur, Kazak, Hui, Mongolian, Kirgiz, Tajik, Tatar, Uzbek, Daur, and other nationalities. There has been unrest among the minority groups, but I haven't been here long enough to assess the issues or to know how deep the unrest is.
Korla is the name of the city I live in. For thousands of years it has existed as a community along the famed Silk Road trade route. Officially though, it became a county in 1940, a prefecture in 1954, a part of the Bayin Guoleng Mongolia Autonomous prefecture in 1960, and was approved as a city in 1979.
The population, depending on what source you quote, is between 300,000 and 400,000. This is small by Chinese city standards, but relatively large for this area. Abundant farming land has always made the area a settlement, and the discovery of oil in the Taklamakan Desert has significantly increased the population (and Beijing's interest).
The city is roughly half Han Chinese, and half minorities (primarily Uygur).
Korla is known for its 'fragrant pears.' Every city in China seems to be known for something .... Don't sneer, you out there in the Land of Famous Potatoes.
I live inside a compound, which is basically a city within a city. There are approximately 5,000 inhabitants who work for the Tarim Petroleum Country (which oversees the school I work for). The school is in the compound, as are banks, restaurants, stores, police stations, parks, playgrounds and other things I haven't discovered yet.
A river runs through Korla, and it creates a border between my compound and the downtown area. Still, it's only a 10 minute walk to the bridge, and another 5 minutes into downtown.
In another direction, it's a ten-minute walk to a Uygur community with shops, restaurants and outdoor stalls. If I want to buy chicken (let's say for an innocuous, gentle stir fry), I am required to point to the live bird I desire and they will kill, chop and package it for me.
Where's the beef?
My apartment is a nice set-up; bedroom, kitchen, livingroom, bathroom and computer room. It came furnished, including a washing machine, television and computer. For complimentary housing, I can't complain.
Speaking of, when I was staying at a hotel in Urumxi, the towels were labeled 'uncomplimentary' (which I assumed refered to their possesion as opposed to their use).
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